Search

sitemap  Sitemap


HAWAIINLIFE2ByTaraRyan

Travel Report
The Hawaiian Life

Every story has a beginning and a ending, although you cant call a story, a story that hasn’t been completed yet. My Hawaii story is just beginning.

It all started in October 1999, when my family took me on a trip to Hawaii. I found my self loving the great waves, strong hot tropical climate, warm water, unique friendly culture, amazing people, fatty foods and the life style that all is known, is surfing. I loved it! As the weeks started to pass I found my self falling in love with the place, meeting people that brought so much joy to my life, surfing big waves that challenged me, long boarding at Waikiki with my friends and family, it felt like a dream! It didn’t feel real until I was back on the plane home to Sydney with a empty feeling inside of me, a feeling like I had just left home. For the next four years I visited several countries, but not Hawaii. I had this urge that I wanted to go back so much, from this so many dreams and desires built up in me.

I bugged my parents so much that in June 2003 my family and I moved over to Hawaii for 3 months. We moved to the small town of Kalihi Valley, South Shore of Oahu. Life was better then ever, my day consisted of a dawn patrol surf at my favourite surf spot Kaisers with my dad and the boys, head back home for breakfast, do a little home schooling, then venture out somewhere on the island. Every day we would do something different in the afternoons, see something we haven’t seen, or learn something we don’t know. It was so fun. There is so much to do in Hawaii and every side of the island is so unique and different. We found ourselves so occupied, even if it was jumping off the rocks at Waiamea, running with rocks underwater at Kailua, tandem surfing at Waikiki, charging the summer swell at Yokohamas, we were always entertained.

By the end of the 3 months, I felt like a local, found a great bunch of friends, got a very dark tan, surfed most breaks on the island and I was used to the laid back and beautiful Hawaiian life. I have to say honestly that I found it very hard and saddening returning to Sydney Australia. After a week of being back in Sydney I knew that if I worked hard enough at school that I could go back over.

Six weeks later I was back on the plane to Hawaii, although this was different, I was flying solo. This time I stayed with good friend Eric Awakawa (board shaper) and his family at Waiamea bay. I spent most of my time on the North Shore doing the usual, but also working with photographers and watching the contests.

 

The most exciting thing about being in Hawaii during this time is the surfing scene. Every pro surfer, every surfer that wants to be a pro surfer and anyone who is slightly interested in the surfing world is there. It’s amazing that the small area can get so crowded with people, wanabes, tourists and most of all the media. I have seen the Pipe Masters, Haleiwa Pro, Sunset Pro and the Eddie Akawa Opening ceremony. But Nobody knew if the surf would get big enough or even clean enough for the Eddie, as it wasn’t on for 2 years before it, but out of all the contests this is the one I was waiting for!

Six days after the opening ceremony I woke to a strange amount of noise. I ran out side to see traffic jams, people everywhere, helicopters flying in the sky, and media gathering at a very rapid passé. I ran around the corner to see that the Eddie Contest was on!!! Massive clean waves that were ground shaking. I sat on the beach in owe with the rest of the thousands and realised how much power the ocean has and how this little island in the Pacific has the privilege of these powerfull waves that are so unique. This day stands out in my mind more then anything else, as I know that we were all in owe of the contest, waves, surfers and atmosphere.

I could go on and on with amazing things that I have seen and done in Hawaii but I would be talking forever. I have returned to Hawaii every year since I lived there and I love it. I know that my story is just beginning… who knows you might catch me living over there later for good.. who knows? And as for the rest of the questions you have in your head about Hawaii, you will just have to go there to see for yourself.


HomeHome